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Singapore is renowned for the delightful cuisines that can be found in its hawker centres. Travellers herald from across the globe simply to taste dishes like chicken rice, laksa, and chilli crab. In 2020, "Hawker Culture in Singapore" was selected to be on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, a firm acknowledgement towards the impact and influence of hawking in Singapore's history. Less widely known is this—though now synonymous with Singaporean culture, the fate of hawking once hung in the balance.

From Streets to Stalls traces the longue-durée history of hawking in Singapore and how it has evolved. This book highlights the challenges hawkers had to overcome before achieving their celebrated status in Singapore and around the world. It also delves into the policies implemented to enact hawker reform and regulation, and explores how hawker centres have been transformed into essential third spaces that promote social mingling and support Singapore's founding principles of multiculturalism.

Taking readers through time, From Streets to Stalls investigates the origins of hawking in ninth-century Singapore and ends with a commentary on the present-day sociocultural importance that it retains.
“Ryan's book brought me on a heartfelt journey through Singapore's vibrant hawker culture, evoking a profound sense of pride in our culinary heritage. He has beautifully captured the resilience and enterprising spirit of the hawkers, whose dedication provides Singaporeans with delicious, affordable meals every day. This celebration of our unique food culture is a testament to the rich tapestry of traditions and flavours that characterise our nation.”
—Mdm Halimah Yacob, Chancellor, Singapore University of Social Sciences, Former President of Singapore

“Hawker centres are a distinctive feature of Singapore's urban landscape. They are community spaces where people from all walks of life take their meals, meet family and friends, and enjoy a great variety of culinary delights from our multi-ethnic cultures. That Singapore was recently awarded UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity speaks to the uniqueness and significance of our hawker culture. What started as an economic activity that catered to the needs of transient populations and provided employment to the urban poor, became an integral part of the post-independent government's early policies of industrialisation, urban renewal and preservation of communal spaces for social interaction among the different races.

The author attempts to trace the evolution of hawking from pre-colonial Singapore to contemporary times with the incipient emergence of a new generation of artisan hawkers. How this 'gentrification' of the hawker culture will pan out and help to safeguard the heritage remains to be seen. This book stirs our interest and concern over a changing socio-cultural facet of life in Singapore which has become a part of the Singaporean identity itself.”
—Dr Aline Wong, Sociologist, Former Minister of State for Health and Education

“I love this book. As a champion of our hawkers and a lover of hawker food, this book tells the often-forgotten story of how hawker centres came to be. I am happy to commend the book.”
—Professor Tommy Koh, Ambassador-At-Large at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs

“A fascinating read! This book tells a compelling story of the humble beginning of hawker centres and hawker fare, and how they have evolved into the multi-ethnic and multi-cultural hawker culture in Singapore. It is a valuable resource for food diplomacy in promoting Singapore's uniqueness and multiculturalism.”
—Peter Tan, Singapore's Ambassador to the People's Republic of China

“An outstanding history of how Singapore turned a common hawking problem into a unique social engineering phenomenon, this study not only shows us how effective governance can ensure progress, but also alerts us to the continual pressures to adapt and change.”
—Wang Gungwu, National University of Singapore

“From Streets to Stalls: The History and Evolution of Hawking and Hawker Centres in Singapore by Ryan Kueh comes on the heels of a range of books about Singapore's hawker centres. It is especially welcome because the author represents the younger generation which is sometimes thought to be disinterested in hawker centres. Ryan Kueh has successfully turned his undergraduate project into an accessible book for the general public, providing insights into the history of hawker centres, from the 19th century to the present. A welcome addition to the literature.”
—Professor Lily Kong, President, Singapore Management University

“Ryan Kueh is a distinguished alumnus of Tsinghua University's Schwarzman College who has always impressed me with his observations and insights of social phenomena. For Singaporeans, hawker centres are 'community canteens' that serve local fare at affordable prices. For foreign travellers, hawker centres are a must-go place to experience authentic Singaporean culture. For administrators, hawker centres are an example of how one can learn the knowhow of managing the once-scattered street food vendors. Regardless of your profession, anyone from every background can find a relatable chapter.”
—David Pan, Executive Dean and Professor, Schwarzman College, Tsinghua University

“In the total urban transformation of the island, the hawker centre has emerged as an essential social institution in Singaporean everyday life. In documenting a history of the reorganisation of the free-floating itinerant hawkers into a purpose-built centre and, its evolution into an intangible international heritage, this book provides us with deeper knowledge of a constitutive piece of the overall urban fabric.”
—Chua Beng Huat, Emeritus Professor, National University of Singapore

“Singapore is known as a food paradise, and its iconic hawker stalls a 'must visit' for today's cosmopolitan traveller. But beyond their delicious fare, developed from centuries of Singapore's status as a global crossroads of cultures and trade, hawkers have played a key role in shaping the identity of this successful nation-state. Kueh does a masterful job in tracing their history and showing how they have been an instrument of nation building, and in so doing, sheds light on the mechanics of Singapore's relentless pursuit of economic performance and peaceful multiculturalism.”
—Trisha Craig, Executive Director, Princeton Institute for International and Regional Studies, Princeton University
Ryan Kueh is a Singaporean who is passionate about the intersection of consumption culture and history. He holds a master's degree from Tsinghua University under the Schwarzman Scholars programme and completed his bachelor's at Yale-NUS College, reading Politics, Philosophy, Economics (PPE) and History.

For his next passion project, Ryan is researching the evolution of Singaporean Chinese/Nanyang Chinese cuisine. Specifically, he aims to uncover why and how local delicacies have evolved vis-à-vis their Chinese origins, unpacking the idiosyncrasies and uniqueness of local culture.

Authors

From Streets to Stalls: The History and Evolution of Hawking and Hawker Centres in Singapore